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Another Webs4Racers.com production! |
So you found my site for the installation of an Akrapovic 2-2 SBK replica exhaust.
Here's my disclaimer:
| This page was developed to show you how I installed my Akrapovic 2-2 pipe. Doesn't mean it's the best way, right way, or cheapest way. It's simply my way. Follow these directions at your own risk and beware that I can not be held liable for anything you do. |
About my pipe. It's a Akrapovic Evolution Ti 2-2 Superbike replica. This system comes in both a stainless steel header and Ti header system, and with carbon fiber cans or Ti cans. I bought the Ti cans because I thought they would look better than carbon because the Mille already has a carbon rear hugger and the hanger brackets for the pipes were carbon.
Weights! Just for giggles I weighed my exhaust and here are the results:
- Full factory system - 24.5 pounds
- Factory headers with Ti. Arrow shotgun slip ons - 15.5 pounds
- New Akra Ti system - 12 pounds
Details on the pipe can be obtained from Akrapovics website
The best price I found on the pipe was at Cyclemall.net. Frank is a good guy and a real enthusiast!
Tools needed: (From memory)
- 3/8 inch ratchet
- 3/8 inch 3 inch extension
- 3/8 inch 5 inch extension
- 3/8 inch universal joint adapter
- 3/8 inch 13mm socket
- 4mm allen wrench to remove lower bodywork
- 5/16 inch (or metric equilivant) allen wrench for kickstand
- 1/4 inch 6 or 8mm socket to remove kickstand position switch
- 5/16 -8 tap to tap subframe for mounting bracket on left side
- Drill bit to drill hole for tap - I think it's a "F" bit. I bought a kit at Lowes that had the bit and tap together for about $8
- 5/16 cap screw with washer for left side hanger
- Coping saw Lowes has them for under $10
- Dremel tool with sanding drum
All the photos below are thumb-nailed and can be enlarged for better detail by clicking on them.
I started the project at 6:00am and finished about Noon. I took my time and it included 2 or 3 trips to the hardware store for fasteners, a tap, and a coping saw. I also took a trip to Starbucks so I could get the liquid kick start I needed! If someone knuckled down and had everything they needed you could probably do this in 3-4 hours.
Quality of the weld. The plug came safety wired from Akra |
More detail on the welds |
System laid out and dry fit to make sure I had all the pieces and I knew how they went together |
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Another shot of the system laid out |
Rear of the bike with no exhaust. Te remove the old system I used a 13mm socket with extensions to remove the front header bolts and the same set up with a universal joint to do the rear. In all honesty it was not as difficult as I thought it would be. |
Dry fitting of the pipes to ensure clearance as needed. |
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Before you put on the new pipe you will need to remove the kickstand. This requires the use of the 5/16 Allen wrench. Before I removed the kickstand I removed the kickstand position switch. |
To remove the kickstand position switch you need to use the 6 or 8 mm socket and remove the bolt on top of the switch. Be very careful on to break the little tab circled in red. This is what determines the position of the kickstand! |
Left side pipe shown clearing kickstand. The white stuff is a grease that is used to prevent ware from the Ti tubes rubbing |
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Right side collector in place |
Right side pipe dry fit to check for clearance |
Left side dry fit and checked for clearance before subframe was drilled and tapped for hanger |
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Another shot of the pipes dry fit before hangers were installed. If the pipes are un-even you simply rotate the lower collector until the pipes are even |
Showing clearance of kickstand and pipe |
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Template was supplied with the kit. This is used to cut the left side of the lower to allow the exhaust to pass through |
The directions say you can use a pair of tin snips...Ya right. I bought a coping saw for about $10 and used it to cut close to the template |
I then used the Dremel tool with a sanding drum to finish the job. The template is to be used as a guide and may require a little more touch up. |
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Dry fit the pipe to check clearance and make any necessary adjustments. You can see the grease in this photo. |
Once I was confident the pipe would fit and cleared everything I used masking tape to mark the locations I needed to drill for the left side hangers |
Once drilled I tapped the subframe using a 5/16-8 tap. I probably should have used a metric tap, but this worked. |
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After it was all drilled and tapped I put the system on. Here's a shot of the front header between the radiators |
Another shot |
Left side pipe installed |
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Header clearing the shock |
Adobe Acrobat PDF file with all the part numbers for the exhaust. Including things like collectors, and brackets. |
The pipe did not come with a chip, and I used the power
commander. The map I used is:
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After all was said and done I heard rumors of a chain guide that was supposed to
be included. This is to prevent the chain from sawing the header. I didn't get
the guide, and the chain seems to clear the header just fine.
If after reviewing this you have any questions, don't hesitate to email me!
Regards,
Chip